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晚潮

<div class="creator-platform-content"><p>一千多年前，宋仁宗送梅挚到杭州去当地方官，临行前送给他的诗中说：“地有湖山美，东南第一州。”从此开启了杭城的“天堂”时代。令仁宗没有想到的是，“天堂”里既有烟柳曼妙樱雨拂面的似水柔情，也有漫漫长夏里历尽高温煎熬的难耐和不堪。今年的杭城又是当仁不让的东南第一“火炉”，一出梅就气势不凡，接连热出了新高度，妥妥的进入了全国“热”搜榜的榜首。</p><p><img src="https://mc-gxlmmz-public.8531.cn/13336004133828.jpg?x-oss-process=image/watermark,g_se,x_0,y_0,image_MTIzMDg0ODY5MDgyOTIucG5nP3gtb3NzLXByb2Nlc3M9aW1hZ2UvcmVzaXplLFBfNTA&amp;width=1080&amp;height=1440&amp;size=749974"></p><p>这几天的天气预报都在38度左右，有好奇的网友在正午的时候去马路上实测，说温度起码在45度以上了。记得去年的伏天，杭城的市民有50多天是在35度以上的高温天里度过的。其中，40度以上的“酷日子”居然占了14天，双双创了历史纪录！每天刷微博热搜榜，发现杭城的“炎值”与她的颜值一样，都是毫不含糊地走在前列！</p><p><img src="https://mc-gxlmmz-public.8531.cn/13336004145796.jpg?x-oss-process=image/watermark,g_se,x_0,y_0,image_MTIzMDg0ODY5MDgyOTIucG5nP3gtb3NzLXByb2Nlc3M9aW1hZ2UvcmVzaXplLFBfNTA&amp;width=3072&amp;height=4096&amp;size=3021585"></p><p>每逢持续的晴日高温，城内的人们又开始调侃自己是身处“工折户”包邮区了，何时能让这三个残缺的偏旁部首加个“水”呀。曾经有许多匪夷所思的高温八卦流传于江湖，有人说一车运到杭城的南瓜半车被烤成熟瓜了，也有人说放在车厢上的鸡蛋烤熟能吃了，更有甚者说放在柏油马路上的鸡蛋被孵化出了小鸡仔！大家都在调侃中共克时艰，好像这样身边的暑气能略略挥发一点。</p><p><img src="https://mc-gxlmmz-public.8531.cn/13336004165572.jpg?x-oss-process=image/watermark,g_se,x_0,y_0,image_MTIzMDg0ODY5MDgyOTIucG5nP3gtb3NzLXByb2Nlc3M9aW1hZ2UvcmVzaXplLFBfNTA&amp;width=1080&amp;height=1440&amp;size=253264"></p><p>每年的苦夏，如果说内心有祈祷，那就是很卑微地希望午后能降下痛快淋漓的雷阵雨。可是，实到的雨点屈指可数，于是就催生了周边几个郊区的人工降雨。尽管觉得人工降雨好比试管婴儿，感觉上不如原生的阵雨来得真实，那是一种水滴敲窗、梧桐夜雨般的真切。当然，主城区受周边降雨的影响，有时也会有几场聊胜于无的“夏雨”，可以浇一浇心头的烦嚣，虽然无法真切地体验“僧舍清凉竹树新，初经一雨洗诸尘”的那股痛快劲儿。</p><p><img src="https://mc-gxlmmz-public.8531.cn/13336004174980.jpg?x-oss-process=image/watermark,g_se,x_0,y_0,image_MTIzMDg0ODY5MDgyOTIucG5nP3gtb3NzLXByb2Nlc3M9aW1hZ2UvcmVzaXplLFBfNTA&amp;width=2698&amp;height=3594&amp;size=1692162"></p><p>高温天的最大福利，就是能时不时与满天变化莫测的晚霞美丽邂逅。“夏云多变幻，顷刻长崔嵬”。西湖的湖滨、长桥、白堤，还有钱塘江的闻涛江堤，或者就是小区周边稍稍有点前景而又空旷的地方，总能追逐到心里想要的那一抹夏日倾情的笑靥。拖着一天搬砖回来的些许疲惫，顾不上回家吃饭，找地儿追着落日奔摄，这是许多杭城市民的一大乐事。</p><p><img src="https://mc-gxlmmz-public.8531.cn/13336004186564.jpg?x-oss-process=image/watermark,g_se,x_0,y_0,image_MTIzMDg0ODY5MDgyOTIucG5nP3gtb3NzLXByb2Nlc3M9aW1hZ2UvcmVzaXplLFBfNTA&amp;width=2592&amp;height=3455&amp;size=2618147"></p><p>满身的汗流浃背怎么也挡不住好摄之友观赏落日的热情。太阳还高高挂在宝石山上好几丈，西湖的集贤亭到六公园早已是黑压压一片，筑成了千人争拍的人墙。大家像观看大明星演唱会一样，提前个把小时就找好了机位。七点之前的云彩瞬息万变，不同的色块分布在天幕下，像是大师恣意纵横的笔墨，翻腾着一张张斑斓的画卷。</p><p><img src="https://mc-gxlmmz-public.8531.cn/13336004200964.jpg?x-oss-process=image/watermark,g_se,x_0,y_0,image_MTIzMDg0ODY5MDgyOTIucG5nP3gtb3NzLXByb2Nlc3M9aW1hZ2UvcmVzaXplLFBfNTA&amp;width=2878&amp;height=3836&amp;size=2415461"></p><p>西湖的群山在暖风中静默着，成为一道道黝黑的剪影。湖上的三五小舟随波逐流轻轻摇晃着，金黄色的大龙舟船舱上坐满了傍晚游湖的客人。调皮的湖水如霓虹羽衣一般，一会橙黄，一会淡紫，一会褚红，极尽变脸之能事。看斜阳晚照、彩霞满天，就觉得浪漫缱绻，好比倦鸟归巢，终于俯拾了一处心宽。</p><p><img src="https://mc-gxlmmz-public.8531.cn/13336004215556.jpg?x-oss-process=image/watermark,g_se,x_0,y_0,image_MTIzMDg0ODY5MDgyOTIucG5nP3gtb3NzLXByb2Nlc3M9aW1hZ2UvcmVzaXplLFBfNTA&amp;width=2701&amp;height=3599&amp;size=2069326"></p><p>盛夏杭城的时光过得窘态毕露，好像这条小命是空调给的，每天只是从丝丝的冷气中延着残喘。因此，越发觉得，各色美食都可辜负，唯独清晨的时光不可辜负，那是与草木山水在高温季弥足珍贵的对话时间呀。</p><p><img src="https://mc-gxlmmz-public.8531.cn/13336004229700.jpg?x-oss-process=image/watermark,g_se,x_0,y_0,image_MTIzMDg0ODY5MDgyOTIucG5nP3gtb3NzLXByb2Nlc3M9aW1hZ2UvcmVzaXplLFBfNTA&amp;width=1993&amp;height=2657&amp;size=302552"></p><p>常常，五点多就出门，驱车行进在蜿蜒曲折的西湖山道间，在茂密的丛林中，在水源几近枯竭的沟壑中，探寻那一份来自绿色的清凉。曾三二次潜身永福、法喜、韬光诸寺，在千年古刹的梵音中觅得些许宁静。</p><p><img src="https://mc-gxlmmz-public.8531.cn/13336004238276.jpg?x-oss-process=image/watermark,g_se,x_0,y_0,image_MTIzMDg0ODY5MDgyOTIucG5nP3gtb3NzLXByb2Nlc3M9aW1hZ2UvcmVzaXplLFBfNTA&amp;width=2000&amp;height=2667&amp;size=723700"></p><p>绿荫复葱郁，深绿出浅绿。枝藤蔓缠的各种树木，宛若一条条延绵于群山的绿波，伴随着偶尔穿林而过的缕缕清风，过滤了直射的光影，也过滤了早晨动辄三十几度的热力。转悠在起伏跌宕的群山之间，因为有了草木的苍郁，因为有无处不在的鸣蝉的唱和，越发觉得“蝉噪林逾静，鸟鸣山更幽。”内心的清幽多少能抚慰阳光的灼伤，感觉每一峰每一谷都是那样的空灵和旷远。</p><p><img src="https://mc-gxlmmz-public.8531.cn/13336004247748.jpg?x-oss-process=image/watermark,g_se,x_0,y_0,image_MTIzMDg0ODY5MDgyOTIucG5nP3gtb3NzLXByb2Nlc3M9aW1hZ2UvcmVzaXplLFBfNTA&amp;width=1080&amp;height=1440&amp;size=1354126"></p><p>在袅袅娜娜的茗香中，嗅见一份甘霖一般的别样味蕾，何尝不是一件酷暑乐事。去西湖的老龙井村探访了乾隆亲植的十八棵御茶后，来到崖边的老龙井边小憩。这几天连续高温，看着老龙井汩汩而生的一泓清泉，格外的透心清凉。真是“泉眼无声惜细流，树阴照水爱晴柔”呀！老龙井泉始于东吴，是与虎跑、玉泉齐名的杭州三大名泉，清澈甘冽，名泉泡名茶，天地精灵，人间绝配。在茶室小憩，吸进喉咙的茶水尽管还很热，心却不知为何凉了许多。</p><p><img src="https://mc-gxlmmz-public.8531.cn/13336004259012.jpg?x-oss-process=image/watermark,g_se,x_0,y_0,image_MTIzMDg0ODY5MDgyOTIucG5nP3gtb3NzLXByb2Nlc3M9aW1hZ2UvcmVzaXplLFBfNTA&amp;width=1080&amp;height=1440&amp;size=1347150"></p><p>这时，我想起了已经重新装修过的翁家山茶博馆，非常怀念那个山腰树丛间穿堂山风，那一份筛落林荫后的清凉也非常值当。记得上次是樱花时节游走的茶博馆区，小车途经翁家山时一眼瞥见了位于山顶之上的龙井馆区，林木高大，茶室隐约，非常令人倾心！</p><p><img src="https://mc-gxlmmz-public.8531.cn/13336004274180.jpg?x-oss-process=image/watermark,g_se,x_0,y_0,image_MTIzMDg0ODY5MDgyOTIucG5nP3gtb3NzLXByb2Nlc3M9aW1hZ2UvcmVzaXplLFBfNTA&amp;width=1080&amp;height=1440&amp;size=1399625"></p><p>相比于双峰馆区的茶艺历史文化展览，这里是更有格调的高档品茶之幽境。一座座中式阁楼依山坡而建，外表黑顶白墙日韩风的品茶室星罗棋布，散落于浓荫遮日的山间坡地上，阳光被严严实实滤了好几层，人行其间也没觉得十分的燥热。与三二个好友在这些小方格房子里品茗闲聊，闲适之情便会油然而生。</p><p><img src="https://mc-gxlmmz-public.8531.cn/13336004286148.jpg?x-oss-process=image/watermark,g_se,x_0,y_0,image_MTIzMDg0ODY5MDgyOTIucG5nP3gtb3NzLXByb2Nlc3M9aW1hZ2UvcmVzaXplLFBfNTA&amp;width=1080&amp;height=1440&amp;size=187945"></p><p>“高树秋声早，长廊暑气微。不须河朔饮，煮茗自忘归”。煮一壶龙井茶慢慢消磨，呷醇咂香中想像着烈日下的种种艰辛和不易，用力感受着林下休闲的惬意，不失为一种自得其乐的避暑妙法。</p><p><img src="https://mc-gxlmmz-public.8531.cn/13336004295364.jpg?x-oss-process=image/watermark,g_se,x_0,y_0,image_MTIzMDg0ODY5MDgyOTIucG5nP3gtb3NzLXByb2Nlc3M9aW1hZ2UvcmVzaXplLFBfNTA&amp;width=1080&amp;height=1440&amp;size=864794"></p><p>门前的几簇紫薇和茶阁前的三角梅点燃了蓝蓝的天幕，寂寥的山林稍稍变得生动起来。几个十来岁的小姐姐来这里游学打卡，清一色着了宋韵古装，穿行在林间象一朵朵彩云飘过般的轻柔。天蓝得很可爱，洁白的云团与深褐色鳞次栉比的房顶互相印衬，不禁想起一首古诗，“山中何所有，岭上多白云。只可自怡悦，不堪持赠君”，觉得仲夏的早上来此真是不虚此行！</p><p><img src="https://mc-gxlmmz-public.8531.cn/13336004307332.jpg?x-oss-process=image/watermark,g_se,x_0,y_0,image_MTIzMDg0ODY5MDgyOTIucG5nP3gtb3NzLXByb2Nlc3M9aW1hZ2UvcmVzaXplLFBfNTA&amp;width=2000&amp;height=2667&amp;size=541040"></p><p>行走在山间，欲寻一汪山泉几处溪流。怎奈水流出奇的干渴，就转而向往石洞中的清幽。烟霞岭下有三个著名的洞：石屋洞、水乐洞、烟霞洞，都是很有来历的千年古洞。</p><p>满觉陇公园对面的石屋洞是南高峰下的五代石刻遗存，因其洞顶较高，形状似屋而得名。夏日的古石洞边桂花林葱葱郁郁，偶有几株红色和洁白的紫薇花摇曳，栖身其间，品茗静修，似有“书田菽粟皆真味，心地芝兰有异香”之感。</p><p><img src="https://mc-gxlmmz-public.8531.cn/13336004323524.jpg?x-oss-process=image/watermark,g_se,x_0,y_0,image_MTIzMDg0ODY5MDgyOTIucG5nP3gtb3NzLXByb2Nlc3M9aW1hZ2UvcmVzaXplLFBfNTA&amp;width=1080&amp;height=1440&amp;size=144648"></p><p>水乐洞中原有一块奇石，叫作“天然琴音石”。据说，以杖击石，会发出古琴一般的回音。琴音与水声共鸣，是为赏洞雅趣。苏东坡曾写过《水乐洞小记》：“泉流岩中，皆自然宫商”。当年乾隆皇帝来水乐洞游历后，写了一首《御制水乐洞和苏东坡韵诗》，与苏东坡隔空唱和。高产作者弘历的诗大多是“朋友圈体”，其中有二句是“持示荣期高位置，掷地金石声应流”，说的也就是这传说中的“水石齐鸣”。可惜仲夏时节的水乐洞早已没有了水乐之欢。环顾四周，一片孤寂，地上也有些狼藉，估计平时已很少有游客造访了。</p><p><img src="https://mc-gxlmmz-public.8531.cn/13336004333188.jpg?x-oss-process=image/watermark,g_se,x_0,y_0,image_MTIzMDg0ODY5MDgyOTIucG5nP3gtb3NzLXByb2Nlc3M9aW1hZ2UvcmVzaXplLFBfNTA&amp;width=1051&amp;height=1401&amp;size=194037"></p><p>继续沿着羊肠小道向上，当爬到南高峰下的烟霞洞时，见边上一亭古色古香，窗棂间映照着亭边翠绿的古木，绿意盎然，似能听得见阵阵松涛之声。走进幽深的烟霞洞，一座座五代的石佛造像栩栩如生排列在洞穴的两侧。愈往纵深阴暗处走，一股凉丝丝的气息让人不寒而栗。不管外面的是如何烈焰万丈，影影绰绰明明暗暗的昏弱烛光间，这一份清凉倏然滋生，落在自己的心田。恍惚间，觉得自己似乎逃离了市井的喧嚣，挣脱了红尘的烦扰，来到了向往已久的“世外桃源”。</p><p><img src="https://mc-gxlmmz-public.8531.cn/13336004340868.jpg?x-oss-process=image/watermark,g_se,x_0,y_0,image_MTIzMDg0ODY5MDgyOTIucG5nP3gtb3NzLXByb2Nlc3M9aW1hZ2UvcmVzaXplLFBfNTA&amp;width=1260&amp;height=1680&amp;size=124254"></p><p>在这繁华的人世间，每个人都寻觅着自己的“水云间”。行走在这赤日炎炎似火烧的杭城，因为追踪那些有如水滴巨石、风穿针孔的清凉，内心就充满了平和宁静，觉得酷暑下的“东南第一州”还是有许多温柔可人的一面。</p><p>我不禁想起那首“因为爱所以爱”的老歌：“不是为了什么回报 ，所以关怀；不是为了什么明天 ，所以期待---”。欢喜一座久居的城池，暗恋一个倾心的对象，也包括忍受那些一往深情长路上的苦难和痛楚。总有人间一两风，填我十万八千梦。炙热的高温天，好像一块“试金石”，很是考验心志。</p></div>